The Restless, Fearless Life of Lee Miller: ‘Getting Out on a Damn Limb and Sawing It Off Behind You’
Lee Miller - Model with Lightbulb c1943
© Lee Miller Archives.. leemiller.co.uk
‘She is as modern in her viewpoint as next year’s skyscraper.’
Chicago Tribune, on Lee Miller, 1933
I recently enjoyed an extensive exhibition about the life and work of Lee Miller. (Tate Britain, London until 15 February)
Model, fashion and fine art photographer, surrealist and war correspondent, Miller was an independent spirit, a fearless innovator, a restless, determined, adventurous soul.
‘[I was] practically born and brought up in a dark room.’
Lee Miller
Born in 1907, into an upper middle-class household in Poughkeepsie, New York, Elizabeth Miller grew up familiar with photography, since her father, a keen amateur, often used her as a model. Expelled from various schools, aged 18 she travelled to Paris to study lighting, costume and design. Back in New York, she was taught experimental drama, life drawing and painting.
'My fingers feel empty with longing to create.'
While Miller was out and about in Manhattan one day, Condé Nast, the publisher of Vogue magazine, just stopped her from stepping in front of an oncoming car. This incident precipitated her modelling career, and by the spring of 1927 she was featured on the cover of both British and American Vogue.
Lee Miller - Self Portrait 1930
Tall and slender, with cropped blonde hair arranged neatly under a cloche hat, Miller embodied the sharp, androgynous style of the era. Renaming herself Lee, she became one of the most sought-after models in New York, snapped by leading fashion photographers like Edward Steichen.
But Miller was always restless for fresh knowledge and new experience.
‘I would rather take a picture than be one.’
In 1929 she moved to Paris, apprenticing herself simultaneously to fashion-photographer George Hoyningen-Huene and the surrealist artist Man Ray. She presented herself to Man Ray unannounced.
‘I told him boldly I was his new student. He said he didn’t take students, and anyway he was leaving Paris for his holiday. I said, I know, I’m going with you – and I did.’
Miller soon became Man Ray’s model, collaborator and lover. They took photographs of each other from every angle: in profile, from above, below and behind; asleep, naked, head under a bell jar. They tried out new processes: most notably solarisation, a technique by which a print or negative is briefly re-exposed to light during development; the tones of the image partially reverse, creating a dreamlike halo. Also experimenting with crops, enlargements and reflections; unusual juxtapositions and disorientating angles, they created a world of enigmatic beauty - of mysterious hands, street furniture and tar puddles; of strange statues in light and shadow; of love, power and desire.
‘Some of them are pictures I saw in my imagination, just as I would a painting, and I assembled the material for them.’
Miller and Man Ray worked so closely together that it was often difficult to assign authorship, and some co-created work was subsequently published solely in Man Ray’s name.
‘It doesn’t matter. I can’t claim anything; we were like one person when we were working.’
Miller found herself at the centre of an avant garde set that included Pablo Picasso and fellow surrealists Paul Éluard and Jean Cocteau. Cocteau featured her as a classical statue coming to life in his 1930 film, ‘The Blood of a Poet.’
In 1932, Miller left Man Ray, returned to New York, and set up a portrait and commercial photography studio. Clients included BBDO, Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein and Saks Fifth Avenue. Two years later, exhausted by the demands of the corporate world, she abandoned her studio to marry the Egyptian businessman Aziz Eloui Bey.
Man Ray with Lee Miller, ‘Homage de DAF de Sade’
Miller relocated to Cairo and continued to take extraordinary photographs. Travelling through Syria, Palestine, Lebanon, Cyprus, Romania and Greece, her work retained its unique sensibility: uncanny, enigmatic, disorientating. A desert seen through a torn screen, reflections caught in a wheel-hub, statues clothed in shadow; eery rock formations, the domes of a monastery, a disembodied bull’s head on a cart.
'There were lots of things, touching, poignant or queer, I wanted to photograph.’
Having tired of her life in Egypt, in 1937 Miller returned to Paris. On the day she arrived, she met the British surrealist painter Roland Penrose. They fell in love and settled in London. War was on the horizon, but she was determined to stay in Britain.
‘Years ago I fought and struggled to live in Europe – chose my friends in these countries – and their way of living – so I can’t leave now just because there isn’t enough butter to go round.’
As a US citizen, Miller was ineligible for war work. And so, offering her services to British Vogue, she embarked on a new career as a photojournalist. She documented the Blitz, employing her signature style: imaginative use of shadow, solarisation and strange props (fire protection masks, a stuffed bear, an inflatable fish…).
An ‘unexploded bomb’ sign hangs from a desultory pot plant in an empty street. A smartly dressed model poses elegantly under an arch, the building behind her completely destroyed. A discarded shop dummy stands forlorn amidst the rubble.
Miller also took striking portraits of women war workers: searchlight operators, machinists and mechanics; parachute packers and pilots.
‘It seems pretty silly to go on working on a frivolous paper like Vogue. Though it may be good for the country’s morale, it’s hell on mine.’
In late 1942, Miller gained accreditation with the US Army as a war correspondent for Condé Nast Publications. She followed the 83rd Infantry Division across Europe: through France, Belgium, Luxembourg and into Germany; through Denmark, Austria, Hungary and Romania. We see discarded boots and ammunition, field hospitals and burns victims. There are soldiers frozen in the snow, fallen statues and dead Nazis.
Lee Miller - Portrait of Space, Al Bulyaweb, near Siwa, Egypt
'We heard bombers approaching over our shoulders… I had the clothes I was standing in, a couple of dozen rolls of film, and an eiderdown blanket roll. I was the only photographer for miles around and I now owned a private war.'
Miller’s images included the first recorded use of napalm. She also documented the abomination of the Nazi concentration camps at Buchenwald and Dachau. In a cable to her editor in London she wrote:
‘I IMPLORE YOU TO BELIEVE THAT THIS IS TRUE.’
At this time Miller worked closely with the American photojournalist David E Scherman, a correspondent with Life magazine. On April 30, 1945, Scherman took a photograph of Miller sitting in Hitler’s bath, with the dried mud of the morning's visit to Dachau still on her boots. That same day Hitler committed suicide.
'I took some pictures of the place, and I also got a good night’s sleep in Hitler’s bed. I even washed the dirt of Dachau in his tub.’
In the aftermath of war, Miller recorded the euphoria of liberation giving way to disillusion.
‘I’m taking a lot of kid pictures, because they are the only ones for whom there is any hope… And also we might as well have a look at who we’re going to fight twenty years from now.’
Lee Miller - Fire Masks, Downshire Hill 1941
© Lee Miller Archives.. leemiller.co.uk
In 1947 Miller divorced Bey, married Penrose and gave birth to a son, Antony. The family settled in Farleys House in East Sussex, and through the 1950s and ‘60s, they hosted numerous parties for visiting artists.
Miller continued working for Vogue until 1953, covering fashion and celebrities. But her heart wasn’t in it, and eventually she gave up professional photography, dedicating herself instead to gourmet cookery. The relentless work, and the exposure to death, destruction and suffering, had taken its toll. (She also no doubt suffered trauma from her childhood, having been raped by the guest of a family friend when she was seven.) She underwent severe bouts of clinical depression and struggled with alcoholism.
Miller died of lung cancer at Farleys House in 1977, aged 70. Her extraordinary life and contribution to art, fashion, photography and journalism had by that time faded in the public consciousness. Thankfully, after her death, Antony Penrose discovered her archive in the attic: roughly 60,000 negatives, prints and journals.
'It seems to me that women have a bigger chance at success in photography than men... Women are quicker and more adaptable than men. And I think they have an intuition that helps them understand personalities more quickly than men.’
Lee Miller and David E. Scherman - ‘Lee Miller in Hitler’s bathtub, Hitler’s apartment.' 1945
© Lee Miller Archives.. leemiller.co.uk
Lee Miller was an extraordinary woman. So gifted and so brave. She encourages us all to pursue fresh experiences, to learn new skills, to cultivate our own unique perspectives - with vigour, zeal and commitment. She teaches us to forge our own paths in life.
In 1969, Miller was asked by a New York Times reporter what drew her to her craft.
‘Being a great photojournalist is a matter of getting out on a damn limb and sawing it off behind you.’
'You don't own me,
I’m not just one of your many toys.
You don't own me,
Don't say I can't go with other boys.
And don't tell me what to do,
Don't tell me what to say,
And please, when I go out with you,
Don't put me on display.
You don't own me,
Don't try to change me in any way.
You don't own me,
Don't tie me down, 'cause I'd never stay.
I don't tell you what to say,
I don't tell you what to do.
So just let me be myself,
That's all I ask of you.
I'm young, and I love to be young.
I'm free, and I love to be free.
To live my life the way I want,
To say and do whatever I please.’
Lesley Gore, 'You Don’t Own Me’ (J Madara/ D White)
No. 549